WADEC Core Services
Team Transistion Training
Overview of transfer camp process
Length of camp: Transfer Camp is an intensive two-week experience. During this time, we are looking for you and your dog to begin to form a bond that will be the basis for your working relationship. We're also hoping to transfer to you all the knowledge that we can about how to "operate" your Service Dog safely, particularly in public. During this time, we're going to expect you to become a dog trainer.
Daily schedule- Click here for daily schedule
- 1st week:
- 10:30 - 12:00: Classroom: Introduction to concepts and discussion
- 12:00 - 1:00: Bring lunch in to the training center
- 1:00 - 5:00: Practical Workshop: cues and training
- 2nd week:
- 10:30 - 12:00 Classroom/Review: new concepts and review of cues
- 12:00 - 1:00 Lunch field trip
- 1:00 - 5:00 Field trip
What to expect from transfer camp: We will try to adhere to the schedule above, but be aware that there will be times when we may change things around. Dog training is a fluid activity and we may need to make some adjustments in the schedule or the way we are teaching either for you or for the dog.
We say dog training is fluid, because dogs are beings who get tired, stressed, excited and anxious; and as handlers we need to be flexible to meet our dog where he is in that moment.
As handlers, especially when working with a new dog, we need to be patient with ourselves and the dog, as each are learning to communicate with the other, and forming the beginning of a working relationship. Understand that you will be working at improving this relationship every day for the rest of the days you and your dog are together.
Training is first and foremost a mechanical skill. You will probably feel clumsy at first but don't worry, you will develop finesse as you go. Learning to quiet your body movements and your voice is difficult, but you will improve as you remind yourself to do it. It is most important that you remember to keep your hands still and out of the treat bag, as the dog will focus on them knowing there is usually a treat to be found.
Please tell us if you are feeling overloaded, when you need a break, or when we are not communicating effectively or say things that seem contradictory or confusing. It is common to experience a roller coaster of emotions and feelings during training camp. You will probably feel frustrated, tired, impatient, happy, sad, really smart, and sometimes, not so smart. You may also have moments where you want to throw in the towel. This is all very normal.
Your dog, too, is going to experience similar emotions. He, at first, may enjoy this new game.
However, he might begin to show signs of stress: excessive panting, shedding, inability to settle, or sleeping a lot. He may have a hard time paying attention or listening to you. We will work through these rough spots together.
We are here to help you succeed, and are all pulling for the same result: an awesome, safe dog/handler team.
Reality Check Please keep in mind that if we believe that you and your dog are not ready to work on your own after two weeks of training, we expect that you will continue training with us until we feel that the team is working well together. There is no guarantee that this process will only take two weeks. Until you have met our requirements, you may not work your dog in public.
At the End of Camp: At the end of Transfer Camp, you will be tested with your dog, following the guidelines of the Assistance Dog International (ADI) test (copy enclosed). If you pass this test, you will earn the privilege of working in public with your dog. If you do not pass, we will assess the situation, and continue to work with you if all are in agreement that this is the best path to follow.
Week 1 Day 1 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Week 1 Day 1 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 1 Day 1 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Relationship Centered TrainingBy Suzanne Clothier (The following information is taken from S. Clothier's discussion notes at a 2008 Association of Pet Dog Trainers Conference.)
RCT differs from traditional (correction) based training, and from positive (reward based) training this way: the relationship between person and dog is at the center of all that you do together.
RCT believes that a relationship is always a two-way street, that both parties, human and canine, are responsible for upholding their end of the relationship. It is a way of life, not a 15-minute training session.
RCT recognizes that the dog/human relationship is different from our relationships with other people. Dogs are dogs, not people. But there are many similarities as well. Like people, dogs respond well to kindness, trust, respect, clear communication, consistency and understanding.
Every relationship is unique to that particular dog and handler team. Be careful not to let emotional involvement lead you to sacrifice good training technique. Loving kindness alone is not training.
Solid training skills are solid communication skills. Clear communication is essential to good teamwork. Growing as a trainer means keeping a healthy dose of forgiveness on hand both for your dog and yourself. All relationships include mistakes - learn from them.
Don't use treats as a substitute for good communication. It's easy to fall in the habit of treating our dogs, but remember treats are a reward for the behaviors we want, and are not by themselves a communication.
INVEST YOURSELF in the PROCESS! Relationship building with your dog is about the process, not the end results. Enjoy the trip!
Remember that our view of the world is very different from our dog's. If we are to have a balanced relationship with our dog, we must always try to keep their viewpoint in mind also.
The 3 core concepts of RCT are Connection, Communication, and Commitment. Each of these concepts defines specific areas within the dog/human relationship. When handlers are aware of these concepts, it becomes relatively easy to understand how and where the relationship may be in need of support, or become derailed entirely. By identifying areas where the handler has strengths or weaknesses, and then similarly identifying areas where the dog is strong or weak, a picture of the relationship emerges.
- Heartfelt: This is the key to any relationship. When a relationship is heartfelt, there is a connection not only mind-to-mind but also heart-to-heart. This is deeply emotional, and both in the relationship want to be together. There is joy and love in the connection.
- Awareness: Awareness means consciously including the other in all you do. Wherever you go, whatever you are doing, your dog remains a part of your consideration. And your dog maintains an awareness of you as well. When awareness is present, you both notice the body language and actions of the other, and respond appropriately. This is maintained despite distractions in the environment or from other people.
- Respect: Having respect means having reverence and regard for the other's needs, abilities, limits, and perspectives.
Understand that your dog's perspective can be quite different from your own.
Respecting the differences is key to a healthy relationship. Respect is earned, not forced or assumed. Respect means being willing to set aside your ego, and hear "no" for an answer. Respect does not equal skill or understanding or agreement.
Life with dogs is an ongoing conversation. RCT is a two way street, with information coming to you from the dog, and from you to the dog. Sometimes, the conversation is rather casual, and sometimes, it is much more formal, such as when we are teaching the dog specific skills or asking him to behave in certain ways. But at all times, it is an ongoing conversation with a friend.
If your casual communication with your dog is not strong (at home), you will not have strong communication with him in public when it matters.
- Information:Information: In every conversation, information is important. When working with a dog, we need to be using deliberate signals to communicate. Useful information is timely, meaningful, and clear. Good timing and a thoughtful, deliberate and aware use of your body language, facial expressions and tone of voice are important to your dog. Constantly refining your understanding of how dogs communicate is critical to RCT.
- Feedback: Information alone is not enough. In a healthy relationship, information leads to a feedback loop where you respond to your dog, and your dog responds to you and you respond to your dog responding to you and so on. In a tight feedback loop, each responds with clear and prompt responses, altering their own behavior according to what the other has to say. At every step, the goal is staying connected, clearly communicating and in balance with each other.
- Consequences: Simply put consequences either encourages or discourages. RCT emphasizes strongly encouraging the dog, and using discouragement sparingly. Whatever the consequence, it needs to be appropriate and fair for the situation. Consequences also need to be effective, so timeliness, clarity and meaningfulness count. This in not a one way street. Dogs also provide us with consequences, as they are also interested in encouraging our behavior or discouraging some of our actions. Look for ways that your dog is encouraging or discouraging you!
Healthy relationships require ongoing commitment. This is why we say that RCT is a way of life with your dog. Consider how much connection you want and need from your dog? Think about how much connection you can offer your dog?
- Attention: Skillful use of your attention means there is a monitoring system in place at all times you are with the dog. The intensity of attention increases and decreases depending on the situation. Your commitment to providing attention at the needed level will help define how successful the relationship is for you and your dog. Both you and the dog remain receptive to the other's actions and irections, and are able to split your attention between the other and distractions in the environment. *Remember, when you ask your dog for a "Watch Me", you need to also be watching your dog!*Remember, when you ask your dog for a "Watch Me", you need to also be watching your dog!
- Responsibility: Keeping in mind that dogs are social animals, RCT asks that both human and dog take responsibility for their share in the relationship. I refer to this as social responsibility. Many times, handlers take on the full responsibility for the dog's behavior, never asking him to be responsible. In the dog world, other dogs expect the dog to be socially responsible. Taking advice from dogs about dogs can be helpful to the humans.
- Trust: Trust means having confidence in the other's ability and willingness to react appropriately, that we are unafraid of the other and the other's intentions even when we (or they) are confused or fearful. Healthy relationships include trusting that the dog is doing his best. If uncooperative or resistant, he has a reason for refusing to cooperate. Trust that. The trainer's job is always to figure out how to make it possible for the dog to cooperate with you.
Self-control It is important for your Service Dog to be able to exercise self-control in his environment. He needs to practice self-control in situations at home like when a guest comes to the door, when the UPS man delivers packages, when he is being fed or going for a walk. He needs to practice self-control in public, around strangers, when meeting new children and people, when exiting your car, in being able to calmly walk past distractions like other dogs or squirrels. Some of these things can be a huge challenge for your dog, because, after all, he is still a dog. He may have a different agenda than you, like wanting to meet or play with that strange dog, or he may be fearful or anxious in certain circumstances. He will probably see food left on the floor in a restaurant to be a chance for a snack, and will require extra self-control to leave it alone.
Practicing self-control is a life-long exercise. You should look for ways to include this practice into daily life.
- Reward automatic eye contact
- Asking for a "Wait" before entering and exiting the car.
- Asking for a "Wait" at doors
- Asking your dog to sit or down and stay before you give him permission to eat dinner.
- Sits at street corners.
- Leave it's with food on floor.
- LLW quietly next to you in all circumstances (no pulling) (If they do pull, stop and wait until you have their attention before moving forward again.)
Clicker training (from Karen Pryor @ clickertraining.com)
Your dog has been clicker trained. Desirable behavior is usually marked by using a clicker, a mechanical device that makes a short, distinct "click" sound which tells the animal exactly when they're doing the right thing. This clear form of communication, combined with positive reinforcement, is an effective, safe, and humane way to teach any animal any behavior that it is physically and mentally capable of doing.v
When an animal intentionally performs a behavior in order to bring about a desired consequence, as clicker trained animals do, they are learning in a way that researchers call "operant conditioning."
While clicker training initially employs classical conditioning, it quickly becomes operant conditioning as soon as the animal intentionally repeats an action in order to earn a reward. Training through operant conditioning results in purposeful behavior, while training through classical conditioning results in habitual behavior.
Our training involves using positive reinforcement, based on the principles of Operant Conditioning. Rather than using harsh corrections when the dog makes a mistake, we reward the dog when he does the right thing, or what we want. We help the dog by managing his situation and "setting him up for success" so that he cannot fail. If he does fail, we look at the situation and figure out what we did wrong.
Classical ConditioningAnimals (and people) may also associate an action, event, place, person, or object with a consequence, whether pleasant or unpleasant. The more a certain event or environment is paired with a particular consequence, the stronger the association. This type of learning is called "classical conditioning" and represents reflexive or automatic behavior, rather than intentional behavior.
Classical conditioning is feeding the dog in the presence of something scary or difficult so that the scary thing predicts the presence of food (a good thing) and becomes un-scary. This is called "counter conditioning". It may go faster with better treats (steak is better than kibble, $50 is better than $2) and simply requires lots of repetition.
Why we use a clicker?The essential difference between clicker training and other reward-based training is that the animal is told exactly which behavior earned it a reward. This information is communicated with a distinct and unique sound, a click, which occurs at the same time as the desired behavior. The reward follows.
Without hearing a click during an action, an animal may not connect the reward with that action. Or, the animal may associate the reward with another, unwanted action. With the click, a trainer can precisely "mark" behavior so that the animal knows exactly what it was doing. That's why clicker trainers call the click an "event marker." The click also bridges or connects the behavior and its reward, and so is also called a "bridging signal."
Other alternatives to clicker?Correction-based training : involves the use of leash or voice correction to tell your dog what he is doing wrong, instead of showing him the right thing to do. Lure training: Use of a lure, usually food, to direct the dog's movements. The downside to this method is that the dog only learns to follow direction, not to think for himself.
Clicker tips: (by Karen Pryor)
- Click DURING the desired behavior, not afterwards. The timing of the click is all important.
- The click ends the behavior.
- Reach for the treat after you click.
- ALWAYS treat if you click. You can treat without a click but if you click, you must treat, even if you didn't mean to.
- Click only once. If you really liked a behavior, you can increase the treats but not the clicks.
For answers to questions like these
- How can clicker training get rid of unwanted behaviors?
- What if the animal does not obey the cue?
- Why don't clicker trainers use punishments as well as rewards?
please check out Karen Pryor's website www.clickertraining.com. Karen is the guru of clicker training and all things clicker.
It is a well-known fact that if a Service Dog is going to develop bad habits, they will happen during his first six months with you. We cannot emphasize enough the importance of your managing your Service Dog to help him succeed. Practicing all of the behaviors that he knows on a regular basis will also help you. You MUST practice the behaviors that you want to use. If you do not, they will go away. A dog is like a finely trained athlete... the only way that he will continue to perform at a high level is if he practices. Anyone who has a working dog - police dogs, Search & Rescue dogs, and competition dogs - will attest to the fact that the dog and handler must regularly and actively practice.
Another reason to continue practicing is that, after one year, you and your dog will be re-tested with the same ADI test. If we determine that you are not a safe team, we can - and will - take the dog back.
You will need to be on your game 100% of the time during your first several months with your dog to help the transition go smoothly. Simply because you bonded at Transfer Camp does not guarantee success!
- Practice with clicker.
- Mechanical skill practice
- Timing drills
- Practice treating dog:
- Demonstrate methods of treating
- Mechanical skill practice
- Introduction to the training game.
- Read over transfer camp manual pages.
- Practice the mechanics of click/treat
Week 1 Day 2 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Managing your dog's environment.
- Your primary task as a dog handler is to manage your dog and his environment. Be aware of things that might distract him from the job at hand, and plan strategies for how can you keep your dog's focus on you instead of distractions.
- You decide what your dog should do; do not let him decide for both of you. Making the decisions for him, ahead of time, reassures him that you are the one in charge. Dogs thrive on this kind of security. They actually prefer NOT to be in charge.
- You should know, at any given time, what the dog is supposed to be doing. Stop and ask yourself throughout the day, what cue is my dog on now?
Anticipate! Anticipate! We help the dog by managing his situation and "setting him up for success" to minimize the chance of failure. If he does fail, we look at the situation and figure out what we did wrong. Try to cue him before he can make a bad decision, or quickly redirect him if he is struggling with a distraction.
For example, if I leave a pie on the counter and come home to find that my dog has eaten it, I would realize that
- I shouldn't have left the pie on the counter and/or
- I should have closed off the area so that my dog couldn't have access to the pie.
If my dog urinates in the house, I will quickly whisk him outside, then figure out whether I missed any signals from him, or whether I missed his regularly scheduled "bathroom break."
If my dog jumps up on someone to greet them, I will ask the person to step away, ask my dog to Sit-Stay, then ask the person to try again. But I will tell them to turn away if the dog gets up from the Sit. Rather than scold my dog, I am showing him what I expect him to do.
What is a reward for your dog? A reward is anything the dog likes or wants to do.
There are basically two categories of rewards:
- Food Rewards
- Life Rewards
Food Rewards may change depending on the training situation, or on the level of distraction in the environment. For training at home, kibble is fine, especially if you have a Lab. When the difficulty or level of distraction rises, you may need to increase the level of treats, depending on what your dog loves. Chicken or beef hot dog, cheese, cooked chicken or steak, canned salmon, or homemade treats are all acceptable higher level treats.
Life Rewards are things other than food that your dog loves. Generally, the more reliably your dog has learned a behavior, the more you can use Life Rewards in place of Treat Rewards.
Life Rewards for a dog might include:
- Chasing a ball or a Frisbee
- Chasing squirrels or birds (in a safe environment)
- Going outside or coming inside
- Getting a massage
- Digging a hole
- Chewing a chew toy
- Playing tug-of-war or chase
- Taking a walk or going for a car ride
- Playing with other dogs
- Getting on the couch
- Sleeping on your bed
- ANYTHING ELSE YOUR DOG LOVES TO DO
Safety at home: Dogs investigate by sniffing, tasting and chewing. Anything that is within reach is fair game, so:
- remove poisonous houseplants
- keep cleaning supplies out of the dog's reach
- guard all electrical cords from the dog's chewing
- remove any small items that the dog could chew - and choke - on
- do not allow your dog on a high deck without railings
- clean up any antifreeze puddles; antifreeze is highly toxic
- do not let your dog drink from the toilet
- do not leave your dog unattended with access to a swimming pool
- do not give rawhide chews, rubber balls, or other objects that could be swallowed or lodged in your dog's thr oat or intestinal tract
- do confine your dog to your personal property with a fence that cannot be easily jumped or dug under
Safety at home: Dogs investigate by sniffing, tasting and chewing. Anything that is within reach is fair game, so:
- Do not let your dog eat from the ground or drink from puddles. He could easily consume something poisonous, and develop a lunging habit.
- Never chain your dog or leave him unsupervised.
- Never tether your dog with a choke chain or head collar.
- ALWAYS have your dog safely on leash or securely confined when away from the safety of your home environment.
- Never transport your dog in the back of an open pickup truck.
- Never leave your dog in your vehicle on a hot day - over 60 degree weather.
- Move quickly on hot pavement, as it can cause the dog's feet to burn and blister. If your dog will be walking extensively on hot pavement, invest in booties for him.
- Always know when and where to reach a veterinarian. Carry phone numbers with you, and have them posted at home.
- Elevators are dangerous. Always enter and exit side-by-side, with you closest to the door jam. Place your wheel or body against the side of the door opening, to prevent the door from closing. Place your dog on the other side of you.
- Escalators, moving sidewalks, and revolving entrance doors are generally considered an unsafe or frightening environment for dogs. Please find alternatives and do not take your dog on escalators, moving sidewalks, and revolving entrance doors.
Meeting new and strange dogs is and will continue to be one of the hardest things for your dog to manage. You need to help him by managing the environment so he can succeed. He will develop great trust in you for your awareness of his needs.
In general, avoid contact with other dogs that you do not know; dogs may be aggressive and/or other dogs can have transmittable diseases.
If you see a dog coming toward you, speak to your dog in a happy tone then move your dog-turn around and go the opposite way and/or arc around to avoid the oncoming dog.
Put yourself between your dog and the other dog, and avoid allowing the dogs to have direct eye contact.
Exercise and Play time
Your dog needs regular exercise and playtime every day. Without proper exercise, your dog will become over-stressed and unable to focus on his work. If he can't settle or acts restless, odds are good that he needs more exercise. Exercise is also critical for fighting the battle of the bulge!
We encourage our puppy raisers to keep our pups active during the first two years of life and training. For most of our dogs, this may include:
- every day, going for a 30 minute off-leash walk/run
- once a day, playing ball outside for 15 minutes
- once a day, outside, unstructured free/play time for one hour
- This is in addition to any training time/outings in which they participated.
We highly encourage you to develop an exercise program for your dog, giving your dog time to be off-leash, without his vest on, relaxing and getting his heart rate up.
Your dog MUST have access to a fenced area where he can exercise every day. However, putting your dog outside in the yard alone is not exercising him. Dogs won't play by themselves in a yard even if there is adequate space and toys. They love it when you come out to play with them though. Playing ball or throwing a frisbee is a good way to fulfill your dog's need for some heart pumping exercise on a daily basis. Play dates with friends who have nice dogs can also be fun for both dogs and people and provide vigorous exercise for the canines.
If it is difficult for you to exercise your dog on your own, we highly encourage you to enlist the assistance of others - friends or a pet sitting service - Getting a helper to take your dog for a long walk on-leash is great, and off-leash runs and swimming in safe areas are highly encouraged
Remember: A tired dog is a relaxed, well-behaved dog.
Exercise should be an important part of your dog's routine. Your dog's strength and stamina comes from exercising but remember to condition your dog to any new activities. Do not expect a dog that has lain around the house for weeks to be up for an arduous trek up and down hills.
Safety Tip - Remove the Vest! Please remove your dog's vest and any equipment that might cause injury before allowing him to play and exercise
If you are finding it difficult to exercise your dog, or need additional ideas of what is appropriate exercise, please contact us!
Week 1 Day 2 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 1 Day 2 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Review of click and treat, treating dog
Foundation behaviors: These behaviors comprise the basis for all of the work your dog will do for you. They are the first cues your dog learned as a puppy, beginning at 8 weeks. More complex behaviors will build on these cues. (ie. touch .. kiss .. push)
Your dog can perform an amazing number of behaviors. To have the highest probability of success:
- Say your dog's name before every cue. This helps get his attention focused on you and lets him know that you need something.
- AVOID repeating your dog's name (or a cue) numerous times if he is not paying attention or performing. Move yourself or do something else to distract him and get him re-focused on you.
- Be aware of your body position and where you are relative to what you want your dog to do. Does he have room to perform the behavior? Is it clear, given the context, what you want him to do?
- Be realistic about what - and where - you ask your dog to do something.
- Give your cues calmly, clearly, and quickly, but not too fast! Don't run a string of cues or irrelevant words together.
Watch Me /Auto check in
Watch Me - a cued behavior in which the dog gives you eye contact. This behavior is easy for your dog, and a good way to redirect him or get his attention if you are asking him for a more complex behavior. The more you practice this at home the more you will have it when you need it.
Automatic check in - this is when your dog frequently checks in and gives you eye contact - but not on a cue. The advantage to practicing automatic check in with your dog is that when distractions are happening, your dog will be more likely to check in with you. Reward automatic check ins often!!
The touch cue is when the dog places his nose on an object - it can be your hand or a lid. Touch is a building block for future behaviors and an easy way to redirect or move your dog around.
Leave It (closed hand, open hand, floor)
Your dog has been taught a Leave it, which pertains to any item you do not want your dog to go after or eat or bother.
- Closed fist leave it Hold out food in your closed fist, do not move your hand. Wait for dog to back away and give you eye contact.
- Open fist leave it Hold out food in your open hand. Be prepared to close your hand if your dog is trying to get it, but don't move your hand. Wait for him to back off and make eye contact.
- On floor Place pile of food on floor beside you. Be prepared to cover it if necessary. Wait for eye contact.
Loose leash walking:
Demonstration of ways to hold leash
In most circumstances, your dog has been taught and will be most comfortable with working on your left side. The leash is usually held in the right hand, which frees the left hand to treat your dog where you want him to be. If you treat with the right hand when your dog is on the left, he will begin to cut across in front of you in anticipation of the treat.
Hand/other signal: n/a. Cue "Let's Go" just BEFORE you begin to move. This lets your dog know what you are about to do.
If your dog pull on lead you can
- Be a tree and not move until the leash is slack or he checks back in with you
- Go in another direction (left, right, or an about turn)
Sit usually happens on the left side. Your dog should be lined up fairly straight beside you. Use of a wall or object to help your dog practice straight sits. Hand/other signal: Arm at right angle in front of you, palm upward; slowly move arm upward in a sweeping motion.
Down also usually happens on the left side. It may also help with down to use a wall to practice straight downs. Hand/other signals: Slowly motion with hand downward, toward floor.
Homework: Read the information in your manual for Day 3.
Week 1 Day 3 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Positive vs. Permissive Dogs do not want to be in charge. Your dog wants you to be his confident benevolent leader. We accomplish this by requiring the dog to do something for us in exchange for the things that he wants. For example, if your dog wants to go out, ask him to Sit and Wait before you open the door. Before you put his food bowl down, ask him to Down. Before you pet him, ask him to Sit. Before you throw a toy or ball for him, ask him to Sit and Down. Use your imagination! The primary lesson that we want your dog to understand is that all good things come from you
One mantra we like is "Positive is Not Permissive." Just because we use positive training methods does NOT mean that we allow our dogs to run amok. We expect our dogs to be well-behaved and obedient. But they need our guidance to do so.
Expectations of your dog Always expect that your dog will do what you ask of him, provided that your request is realistic. If you are in a crowded, loud bar, with lots of unfamiliar sights and smells, and you cue your dog, he may have trouble responding. However, if you are in a familiar environment, or one that is not overly challenging, and you cue your dog to Sit or Down, for example, he SHOULD respond. If he does not, persevere until he does!
If you ask your dog to do something, and your request was realistic - i.e., the dog is capable of performing that behavior in that setting - do not accept "no" for an answer. Cue your dog again or move your position .. do what it takes to get the behavior. We do NOT want the dog to think that it is OK to ignore your cues. This is particularly important in the first six months of your relationship.
Set realistic expectations. At the end of the day, he's still just a dog, not a machine. Know when to cut him some slack.
Reading Your Dog - Body Language Your dog's body language around you, other people, and dogs will tell you volumes about how he is feeling. Sometimes signals are subtle; other times they are all too apparent. Become an expert at observing your dog. You'll soon be able to read him and know exactly what he's feeling - and therefore know what he needs to feel comfortable in a given situation.
You may also get valuable clues about why he is not performing
Be Aware of Your Own Body Language
- Staring your dog in the eye?
- Leaning over him?
- Using a gruff tone of voice?
- Moving your hands?
- Approaching the dog head on or in a threatening manner?
Be Aware of the Dog's Body Language
Look at his:
- Tail: is it up, wagging quickly, tucked, stiff?
- Eyes: are they glancing sideways, staring straight on?
- Ears: are they up, pulled back?
- Body posture: is he on his toes, or slouching?
- Mouth: is he growling, snapping, or baring his teeth?
Interacting with Other Dogs
- Never allow your dog to rush another dog
- Never allow your dog to greet a dog head on, or stare at another dog
Signs of stress in your dog
A key to minimizing stress in your dog is to work on creating a strong relationship with him.
If he knows that he can depend on you, he is less likely to be stressed, and more likely to tune into you if he starts to become stressed.
- Signs of Stress
- Moving slowly
- Licking his nose
- Turning his head
- Averting his eyes
- Panting (too wide, too shallow)
- Acting shy
- Dilated pupils
- Reluctant to go see a person/socialize
- Under active
- Sweaty Paws
Signs of Prolonged Stress
- Disruption of eating habits
- Excessive sleeping
How You Can Contribute to Stress
- Unrealistic expectations
- Your own stress/emotional state
- Our emotions travel right down the leash!
- Even if you are upset at something else, they may think that you are upset with them
Other Factors That Can Cause Stress
- Your dog needs to go to the bathroom!
- Disruption of his routine and/or home life
- Being out and about in public
Video of body language, stress
Week 1 Day 3 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 1 Day 3 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Review of cues: touch, watch me, auto check in, leave it, LLW, sit, down
Your mat: With this cue, your dog has been trained to go to a mat and down. The handler must be close by the mat/towel/dogbed to help the dog see where you want him to go, and then using a hand gesture if possible, say, "your mat".
Hand/other signal: Point toward mat
Stay: The cue Stay is most often used with down. The dog should stay in place until the release word is given. If he breaks the stay, quietly go to him and reposition him in the down. Don't click a stay, since click signals the end of the behavior. Treat without clicking to increase duration of behavior.
Hand/other signal: Palm out, facing dog, fairly close to dog's face, but not touching
Release: This word is used to allow your dog up from a down. He should only break his stay when he hears this word, but the handler needs to remember not to use a stay unless you are prepared to reinforce the behavior, and give the release.
Come (recall): Dog comes to you, straight in front of you; if he is on leash, your next cue, immediately, should be "Get Your Leash." If not on leash, cue a "Sit" immediately.
Hand/other signals: Clap, whistle, click your tongue, call name. If dog is highly distracted move away from him fairly rapidly and call OR calmly, slowly go over to him, and leash him.
Do NOT repeat the "Come" cue more than twice
Wait: Behavior:Dog remains in vicinity; this is like saying "hang on just a minute!" It doesn't matter what position the dog assumes, as long as he doesn't move from the area. Useful at doorways and car loads/unloads.
Hand/other signal: Palm outward facing dog
Week 1 Day 4 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Responsibilities of Dog Ownership At a very minimum, dogs require shelter, water, and food to survive. A Service Dog, however, is similar to a high-performance athlete: To work at his best, he needs the absolute best care that you can give. This means daily exercise, playtime, feeding a high-quality food and water, annual veterinary visits, home health care, training sessions, a routine, gentle guidance, and lots of love and patience.
Veterinary Visits Your dog must go to the vet at least once a year. Vaccinations, including a rabies shot, are required every three years. At the annual visit, the vet will perform an overall exam, as well as administer heartworm and fecal tests
Your dog's vet has been: has all of your dog's health records. This animal hospital is willing to provide you with a discount for services. Simply inform them that your dog is a WADEC service dog
- Your dog's last visit was _________________________________________
- He is due for his next visit _________________________________________
- His next vaccines are due _________________________________________
- Your dog weighs _________________________________________
In addition to his yearly visit for vaccinations/health exam, your dog may experience times when he is not acting "normally". You should make a habit of studying your dog's habits and health carefully all the time, so that you can learn to discern when he doesn't feel so good. (i.e., vomiting, diarrhea, lethargic, consuming too much/not enough water, itchy or dirty ears, etc.), Use good judgment when trying to decide if a vet visit is needed. If you are worried about your dog's health, it is always safer to let the vet make the decision as to whether your dog's condition warrants a visit. !
Emergency Veterinarian Information
The following emergency veterinary clinic in Lynnwood WA is available for after-hours emergency care; you must call ahead before going to the clinic.
Emergency Clinic number HERE
You need to find the Emergency Vet Clinic nearest you, and post their number with your other emergency phone numbers.
Home Health Care You are your dog's guardian. It is up to you to ensure that he remains in good health. Signs of ill health include abnormal behavior (sleeping a lot, not eating, not drinking, avoiding people, growling, snapping, etc.); lumps; rashes; chronically dirty ears; excessive shedding, itchiness, dry skin, or dandruff; diarrhea; and vomiting, as well as anything else that seems "off" about your dog.
There are several things that you must do to maintain a healthy dog. These include:
- Administer Heartworm preventative (Interceptor) This is a tablet that you give the dog once a month. He will eagerly eat it plain, or you
can give it in a spoonful of peanut butter as an extra treat! Heartworm preventative is available from your vet, and requires a yearly blood test.
Next dose is due:________________________________
- Administer flea and tick control (Frontline) This product is applied topically to the area between the dogs shoulders once a
month, and controls fleas and ticks. If you use this as directed, there should be no need for dips, collars, or any other products.
Next dose is due:________________________________
Both of these products come with handy stickers to affix to your calendar to help you remember when to administer them.
- Bathing Your dog should be bathed, on average, once a month or anytime he is smelly or dirty. Use a gentle shampoo, or take your dog to a groomer. You will come to know when your dog needs a bath. Use your judgment. If your dog stinks, he needs a bath! It is poor Service Dog etiquette to take a dirty dog into public places
- Administer Heartworm preventative (Interceptor) This is a tablet that you give the dog once a month. He will eagerly eat it plain, or you can give it in a spoonful of peanut butter as an extra treat! Heartworm preventative is available from your vet, and requires a yearly blood test.
- Brushing: At least once a week, give your dog a good brushing, and feel and look all over his body for any lumps, rashes, or signs of problems. Brushing is therapeutic and relaxing for both of you! Regular brushing will allow you to get to know his body, and makes it easier for you to spot potential problems before they become serious. Brushing, too, helps keep your dog clean and reduces shedding. Daily brushing is ideal!
- Ear cleaning: Using a cotton ball, gently wipe out the dog's ears. For very dirty ears, warm the solution and use a dropper to squirt solution into his ears. Massage the base of the ear, allow the dog to shake, then wipe out any excess. If your dog's ears are chronically very dirty, or have a yeasty smell, or if he shakes or cocks his head a lot, contact your vet. Chronic ear infections can lead to loss of hearing.
- Nail trimming: Keep your dog's nails short. If he works on pavement a lot, this will help keep the nails short, but you will still need to do some trimming. This is also a chance to inspect your dog's nails and pads to look for any signs of distress such as splitting. If your dog's nails are allowed to repeatedly grow long, you will have a very difficult time getting them short again, and, more importantly, nails that are too long affect your dog's gait, which will lead to other orthopedic problems. Feed lots of treats during nail trimming, and keep it happy and upbeat!
- Brush teeth: Dogs do get gum disease and tooth decay! A gentle brushing with a toothbrush and warm water or "dog toothpaste" will help keep your dog's mouth disease-free and fresh. A chronically stinky mouth is a sign of disease, so contact your vet. If you can brush every day, or a few times a week, that would be ideal!
- FeedingYour dog eats two times a day: once in the morning, and once in the evening. It will help him with his toileting and digestion if you feed him at approximately the same times every day.
- Your dog eats _____________________________, and will consume roughly 20 lb per month. We have chosen to feed and recommend ________________ because it is a high quality food that will help your dog to be at his best. _____________________ is an all natural dog food.
- What does 'all natural' mean? It means no artificial colors, no fillers, no by-products, and no meat marked unfit for human consumption.
- A better quality dog food contains only high-quality, human-grade ingredients, including flaxseed and fishmeal for healthy skin and a strong immune system. It is also preserved naturally using vitamins A, C, and E, instead of the chemical preservatives many commercial pet foods use. That means your dog's body spends more time digesting much-needed nutrients instead of filtering out waste and chemicals (usually in the form of bad breath, body odor, and generous piles of poop).
- You can use part of your dog's meals for training. Measure out, at the start of each day, your dog's allotment. You then can see clearly what you have available for the day for training and mealtimes.
- Your dog currently eats, PER MEAL ___________________________
- This means you will feed him ___________________________ per day.
- Your dog currently weighs ___________________________
- Your dog is coming to you at about his ideal weight. It is important for you to pay attention to his weight, and work to maintain him at this weight.
- You should be able to put your hands on his ribs and feel them under the skin. The ribs should be obvious, but not sticking out, and his backbone and hips should be covered but still obvious.
- An overweight dog is much more susceptible to health problems, and may not be able to do the work you are asking him to do.
- Just as not feeding a dog enough can be considered abuse, so, too, can over-feeding. When your dog gains weight, it is important to increase his exercise and slightly reduce the amount of food he consumes. Keep in mind, that as your dog ages, you may need to slightly reduce his food intake.
- WADEC feels very strongly that our dogs need to be at the peak of health, including at the proper weight, in order that they be able to perform the work we are asking of them. WADEC does reserve the right to take possession of a dog if health concerns make him unable to perform his duties properly, including if he becomes obesely overweight
You can easily use your dog's kibble as treats. However, it's nice to give your dog some variety, and can be important to use higher value treats for harder tasks and environments (ie. the grocery store, or an outdoor festival)
If you buy commercial dog treats, always check the label. Try to avoid ingredients like corn and wheat, sugar, corn syrup, and salt. Be aware that some dogs have a severe allergy to even small amounts of pork.
Commercial treats we like are alternate brands of kibble or other treats that do not use corn, wheat or sugars.
You can also use human food such as sliced hot dogs; peanut butter; cream cheese; baby food; small cubes of cheddar cheese; chicken (boiled or microwaved); minced steak or roast beef; small chunks of apple or carrot. In general, stay away from sugary or salty foods and junk food.
To use chicken or turkey hot dogs as treats, slice each hot dog in quarters, then into small pieces. Place in one layer on paper towels, and microwave on medium for approximately 15 minutes. This will dry the treats out, making them less greasy, and eliminating the need for refrigeration.
1 container chicken liver*
Blend in food processor
Add rice flour ** to thicken (about 1 cup) Blend in food processor.
Spread on a cookie sheet lined with non-stick foil. Cover with non-stick foil.
Bake at 350 F. for 30 to 35 minutes.
Cool and cut into "pea sized" cubes.
*You may substitute canned salmon or nearly any fish or meat. When using canned salmon don't bother picking out the bones, just grind them up in the food processor. Add chicken broth when needed to get the same consistency as the chicken liver version.
** Use rice flour but not a wheat or white flour. Potato flour may also be used. Wheat is an allergen for many dogs. The Indian food or natural food section of most grocery stores have rice flour.
Common household toxins
Raisins, onions, chocolate, antifreeze are the most common household toxins. If you dog ingests these, call the vet immediately.
Other dangerous household products are play dough, coffee, batteries, cigarettes, alcohol, candy, cleansers of all kinds, insecticides and herbicides, and electrical cords.
Keep all human and canine prescription and non-prescription drugs away.
Keep dogs off lawns treated with fertilizers and pesticides.
Your dog should always have access to fresh water. At home, keep a bucket or bowl out and full at all times. Be sure to regularly change the water to keep it fresh.
Your dog will regulate his own intake. When at work or out in public, be sure to carry a bowl and water bottle with you. Dogs can suffer from dehydration. If you have been out and your dog is acting "off," he may be thirsty.
Your dog may or may not alert you to his need to relieve himself (i.e., standing by the door.) Keep him on a regular toileting routine, taking him out every two to three hours, in the beginning of your relationship. If you are going out, allow your dog to eliminate at home. Then, once you arrive at your destination, give your dog the opportunity to relieve himself again before you go inside, even if it has only been 15 minutes.
In public, it is always your responsibility to clean up after your dog! You will need to include poop bags in the equipment you carry at all times.
There are usually distinct times and signs when your dog needs to toilet:
- Times: after sleeping, eating, drinking, or playing; generally every four hours
- Signs: restlessness, whining, pacing, nudging you, sniffing, circling, refusal to move forward, changes in dog's facial expression, ear positioning, general demeanor or body language.
Where and How
- Always toilet your dog early in the morning, before bedtime, mid-day, at other opportune times, and always before entering public premises.
- Choose out of the way places. Look for a small dirt area that can absorb urine and facilitate easy clean-up. If possible, avoid lawns, walkways, sidewalks, and roadways.
- Always, always, always carry a clean up kit.
You must clean up defecation. If you cannot do it yourself, enlist help. If that alternative is not available to you, toilet your dog in shrubbery or other coverage foliage such as ivy.
For sanitary reasons, it is recommended that you clean up your yard daily and dispose of your dog's waste properly. Leaving waste unattended can lead to disease, such as parasites, and an unpleasant environment. Your dog will not enjoy being in the yard if it is "contaminated."
Vest: Whenever you are in public with your dog, he should wear his WADEC vest. This identifies him as a working service dog. Replacement or extra vests are available from WADEC. Please take the vest off for playtime and relaxation to give your dog a chance to be "off-work".
Collars WADEC endorses the use of martingale collars, buckle collars, head halters, and harnesses that hook at the chest
We do not use prong, choke, or shock collars. If you feel the need to use one of these products, please contact us first.
If your dog is going to be home alone (without any chance of getting out!), you may choose to remove his collar for safety reasons. However, we recommend that at any other time, your dog wear his collar.
Your dog should always wear the ID tag that we have provided you affixed to his collar. In addition, it would be good to get an ID tag with your home address and phone number on it. The internet company we use is a named Boomerang Tags.
We have also "micro chipped" your dog. A microchip is a tiny chip implanted between your dog's shoulders that is encoded with a unique ID number. This number is registered with a national service. In the event that your dog is lost, the chip can be read via universal handheld scanners that virtually all vet clinics and shelters across the country have access to.
Your dog's ID # is _______________________________
If your dog becomes lost, please contact us IMMEDIATELY!
We recommend that you use a leather or nylon leash that is four feet in length or shorter whenever you take your dog out in public.
We prefer our clients to use retractable leashes only in certain circumstances and will teach you proper leash etiquette if that seems to be an appropriate leash for you and your dog partner to use.
*Please remember that when you are out in public with your dog, you are a representative for WADEC and for Service Dogs in general. Keeping your dog's equipment clean and in good repair is one way to be a positive ambassador. Collars, gentle leaders, nylon leashes, and vests can all be thrown in the washing machine to keep them clean..
We are able to procure high quality equipment for you at wholesale prices. Please let us know if you need replacements, and we will be happy to provide them for you at low prices.
Gentle Leader Head Halter: Good for "Danger Zones"
We highly recommend that, at least for the first few months of your relationship, you work your dog on a Gentle Leader (GL) when you are in public, in highly distracting environments such as restaurants, cafeterias, parks, etc., what we call "Danger Zones" because your dog can easily become distracted by food, rodents, etc. The GL will give you that extra degree of control and reduce the amount of times that your dog can reward himself. Inside, at home, in your office, or in less distracting environments, it is OK to take the GL off.
A couple of GL do's and don'ts:
- NEVER tether your dog when the GL is around his muzzle. Rather simply slip the nose loop off, and attach the tether to his flat collar instead.
- Do not make corrections or jerk your dog's leash when he is wearing a GL.
- Do not allow your dog to run to, and hit, the end of the leash when he is wearing a GL.
- Do not leave your dog unattended wearing a GL.
- (Gentle Leader is a brand of head halter and is a trademarked name. We are using the term generically for head halters. We prefer the brand Comfort Harness and New Trix. We can obtain them for you if you need a replacement and cannot find them locally.)
Your dog should have access to his toys only when you are able to supervise him.
Toys with small parts that your dog can ingest are not ideal. High quality fleece toys are great, as are select vinyl or rubber toys and tennis balls. If your dog is destroying a toy, quietly trade him for another toy. Should you have questions about appropriate toys, ask us. In general, better quality toys are available through catalogs and at pet stores, rather than mass merchants. Good toys last longer.
Kongs are rubber toys that you can stuff with food to keep your dog busy and give him an outlet for energy. It is OK to leave your dog alone with a Kong.
See the Appendix for Kong "recipes." We can also supply you with replacement Kongs for a very low price.
Old shoes and socks do NOT make good toys as your dog cannot differentiate between those items that are his, and those that are off-limits!
Raw, uncooked, marrow, or soup (femur) bones, from the butcher are a nice treat for your dog, and can provide both of you with some relaxation time. You should freeze them before you give them to the dog. Sterilized bones are also available from pet supply stores. You can stuff sterilized bones with treats, peanut butter or cream cheese. We do not recommend other commercial "consumable" bones. We also prefer that you not give rawhide chews as they can get caught in your dog's throat or digestive tract.
Your dog is crate trained. You may find it helpful to have a crate for your dog should it become necessary for you to be away from him. A crate should be big enough that your dog can comfortably stand up in it, turn around, and lie down. An XL (40 L X 27W X 30H ) is typically sufficient. If you are getting a larger breed dog then a larger crate will be required.
Mats and Dog Beds
A fleece mat or special blanket that your dog knows is his is comforting to the dog and is a great place to have your dog lay quietly. You can take this mat with you when you travel, and it can also go up on sofas or chairs if need be.
It is a great idea to have a dog bed for your dog at home, and at work. This is particularly useful if you do not want your dog sleeping on your bed at home. Simply direct him to "his" bed, ask him to "Down," and reward him for being there. Giving him a Kong or other appropriate chew while he is there may also help the transition.
Taking your dog home
This is an important first step in truly creating a lasting bond with your dog. A strong bond will enhance your team workmanship.
The first night together
When you take your dog home for the first time during Transfer Camp (usually at the end of the first week), your job is to bond with your new dog. You may wish to tether your dog to you.
We expect that you will go directly home or to your hotel room; you and your dog are not allowed in public together at this stage. As soon as you arrive home, before going inside, give your dog the chance to eliminate. Once inside, "show him around." Show him where his water bowl is. Once you and your dog have settled in, feed him (see Feeding Guidelines). After eating, he should again be taken outside to stretch his legs and eliminate. Take your dog out one last time before bed. Don't expect your dog to do much for you - simply allow him to get settled and relax. There will be plenty of time ahead for working! You will also need to feed your dog in the morning before class. You may choose to feed him about half of his normal food intake since we will be training again today.
During your first two weeks home with your dog, it is also important that you limit family members or friends' interaction with him. Discourage any petting, eye contact, or communication with your dog. We want your dog to become focused on you. If you need assistance with exercising or toileting your dog, ask your helper to interact with the dog as little as possible. If you are able, accompany your helper and dog outside.
Be sure that you are involved as much as possible in "food preparation" so that your dog understands that all resources come from you. When you are getting your dog's food ready, ask him to "Down" and "Stay." If, at any time during food prep he gets up, calmly put the bowl up out of reach and give him the cues again. Do this as many times as necessary to keep him in position; do not give in! As you put the food bowl down, he should maintain position, if he breaks, put the food up and re-cue him. Once you can put the bowl down without him getting up, cue in a happy voice "Release!" and let him eat. Do not bother him while he is eating!
Car Loading & Unloading
Be extraordinarily careful when loading/unloading with your dog into your vehicle. Dogs and traffic don't mix! You will need to be very alert during this process. Before you begin to load or unload, have a very clear picture in your mind of how the procedure will work, and the cues that you need to use. If you have a helper, instruct him on what you expect him to do (if anything). We will go over proper and safe loading and unloading. It is also one of the tasks you must perform safely on the ADI Public Access Test.
It is imperative that you continue to be the sole focus of your dog's attention, keeping him with you as much as possible, and continuing to encourage family and friends not to interact with your dog.
During the weekend, you are not allowed to go out in public with your dog, nor are you allowed to leave your dog home alone. Meals should be prearranged. We understand that, in the short term, this will make your life difficult. However, the trade-off for long-term success is well worth the effort now. Your entire weekend should be spent resting and bonding, as you have another big week ahead of you!
Emergency Contact Information
Before taking your dog home, please have an emergency contact lined up. This should be someone other than those people living in your home. This person will be responsible for the welfare of the dog, or, at the very least, contacting WADEC if there is an emergency.
Record the information below; be sure that those people living in your home with you are aware of this designation.
City _________________________________________________ State _________ Zip ________________
Home phone _________________________________ Work phone ________________________________
Week 1 Day 4 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 1 Day 4 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Practice previously learned cues: down, stay, release, your mat, come
Heel/sideThis cue designates a place, not a movement.
Heel is the dog on your left side,
Hand/other signal: Small counter-clockwise circle with your hand at your left side.
- This is either your dog's primary or secondary position. If it is his primary position, virtually anytime you are walking, seated, etc., your dog should be working on the left side. We will tell you which is your dog's primary position.
- An alternate signal is turning your head to the left side and calling the dog's name.
- A third signal can be used when the dog is behind you- put your left hand out by your side palm facing the dog" and say the dog's name and/or "heel".
Side is the dog on your right. In position it does not matter if they are standing, sitting, or down unless you give them that specific cue. They should be lined up next to you fairly straight.
Hand signals would be the same as for Heel except done on the right side.
Back This is a moving cue, and can be done two ways. The dog can be facing you from the front, and Back in front of you. C/T as he is moving for Back, not stopped.
The other way is to have your dog in the Heel or Side position, and both of you will Back together. Again, C/T as he is moving.
Go in This cue is for times when you would like your dog to down under a table to be out of the way, at work under a desk or at a restaurant.
You will position your dog at the table, and ask for go in. He should go under the table, turn, and down facing you. His tail and body should be out of the way of any traffic flow.
Meet -n- greet
There will be lots of opportunities in public for your dog to meet people. When you choose to allow someone to pet your dog, be sure that your dog is on his best behavior. Remember, attention and being petted is a great reward for many dogs, so don't feel badly asking your dog to earn it!
As someone approaches, ask your dog to "Sit" or "Down" then "Stay." Ask the person if your dog gets up to please back away, then re-position your dog and try again. IF your dog jumps up on the person, apologize, then politely tell them that perhaps your dog is a little too excited for petting at the moment. As they leave, ask your dog to "Down," then "Stay." Release him in a happy, up voice and reward him for a good performance.
Elevators can be dangerous for dogs if they should get caught in the doors or the dog and handler should end up on opposite sides of the elevator when the door shuts. If a leash were to get caught up, your dog could be seriously injured.
When you approach an elevator, notice which way the doors open. You will need to be prepared to block the door open with your body or chair until your dog is safely on. Ask your dog to sit or down and stay. When the door opens, you move forward and block it open, then release the dog and ask for a go through (to be learned Day 5).
Car Loading/Unloading Safety
This is another place where safety for you and your dog is of primary importance. Your dog needs to be under control at all times. A loose dog could run into the street and be hit by oncoming traffic.
To enter a vehicle, have your dog sit and wait, while you unlock and open doors. If a ramp is coming out, the dog should be able to wait quietly - always on leash. When you are ready for your dog to enter the vehicle, tell him "car", and he should enter and find his spot in the vehicle.
To exit a vehicle, have your dog sit and wait until you have the leash attached and in hand, then cue them release and allow them to jump out. Always be aware of leash length, and do not let them go into oncoming traffic. They should then practice sit and wait until you are ready to go.
All the dogs should be able to walk quietly and calmly up and down a flight of stairs if asked. For the dogs doing balance work, they have been taught a step by step method for stairs where they will take a step only when asked.
Step is the cue for advancing a step. Putting out your leash hand in a touch will help your dog to move if he seems stuck
Wait is the cue for him to stand still while you take a step. If he is charging ahead you may "check him" by holding firm on the harness. You can also cue a wait by placing your palm in front of the dog's nose and say "wait".
Up stairs, the dog will step ahead of you. Down stairs, the dog will wait while you step first so that he doesn't pull you down the steps.
You will be taking your dogs to the hotel with you tonight for your first night together. Please remember that you do not have public access, so do not leave the room with your dog except for toileting purposes. Do not leave your dog in the room alone either, as he may be anxious in a strange place with a new person. Make arrangements for meals to be eaten in your room with your dog.
Refer back to the section on the first night with your dog, and feeding instructions.
This is a time for bonding between the two of you. Play with him, and let him rest. Remember that he has had a stressful and difficult week, and needs to nap. You will have lots of time for activities together in the future.
*Think about a new behavior that you would like to train for next week. We will discuss it tomorrow, and make a plan for beginning to train it.
Week 1 Day 5 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Rules and Responsibilities of Public Access
The "Americans with Disabilities Act" has given the right of public access to service dog users. However, like any freedom, it is subject to interpretation and refinement. Therefore, be sensitive to your public presence: A true service dog is an unobtrusive helpmate.
Working a dog in public is a privilege. If, at any time, you and your dog become a nuisance or appear to be unsafe, you can be asked to leave the premises of a public place. Do not abuse your privilege! Remember, too, that you and your dog are now representatives of WADEC.
ANY TIME that you are working your dog in public, he should wear his WADEC vest. You should also have your ID card, as well as the copy of Guide to Assistance Dog Laws.
While your dog is wearing his vest, he should not be allowed to play or visit with other dogs. He should not be allowed to goof off. He should be on his best behavior, with you firmly in control. If you are going to allow him a play break, remove his vest.
Service Dog Etiquette
One of the biggest problems that service dog users have is someone tripping over their dogs. People in public are not expecting to see a dog in most places; therefore, it is of the utmost importance for you to always keep your dog out of the way and under your control. Be cognizant of people moving around you! Tripping can be a liability issue, not to mention a safety issue for both your dog and the public, so be aware of his position and set everyone up for success!
In those circumstances in which you ask your dog to perform tasks that might be a brief imposition to others, keep it to a minimum. An explanation given to those around you might even be appreciated.
- Discourage people from petting your dog without first asking by explaining, politely and firmly, that they are distracting him from his work, and that you would appreciate their asking before petting
- Always wear his harness or pack ID
- You are a service dog ambassador; the law favors you, so do not be defensive. Be polite when questioned or confronted.
- Keep your dog close to you at all times - never more than a foot away from your chair
- Do not let any part of your dog's body have uninvited contact with people. While most people would welcome it, others are allergic, or for religious or other reasons, may not welcome it.
- Do not allow your dog to block a passageway or aisle
- In public places when you are not in motion, your dog's entire body, including tail, should be out of the way (i.e., under a table)
- Your dog should not engage in any personal grooming in public, including licking, shaking, scratching, or chewing. Persistence could be a sign of a health problem.
- No sniffing! Do not allow your dog to put his nose where it hasn't been invited. A Gentle Leader head harness can help you with this.
- Your dog should not bark, whine, or growl in public
- Never should your dog be off-leash in public.
What to Take with You When You Go Out
Be prepared for any circumstances...it's just like taking out a baby!
You should have - in addition to his leash, collar, vest, and ID tag - water, and a water bowl. Remember to offer your dog water...if it is hot, if he is out for a long time, or if he's been exercising a lot.
And poop bags! Remember that the time to toilet your dog is before you enter the store! It is your responsibility to clean up after your dog. If you are physically unable to do so, ask for assistance. Paper towels are also a good idea.
WADEC retains ownership of your Service Dog for your first year with him. After successful completion of the ADI test at the one-year mark, you will be granted ownership of your dog.
Grounds upon which we will not grant ownership include:
- Obese dog
- Neglect of the dog
- Out of control dog
- Repeated failure of the ADI test
Or any other conditions that we deem unsafe for you and/or the dog.
If You Can't Keep Your Dog
Sadly, some occasions arise when a client is unable or does not wish to keep his dog. If this situation occurs, please contact WADEC immediately. We will either take the dog back or place him in an appropriate home. EVEN IF YOU HAVE FOUND A HOME FOR HIM, we must be notified prior to his placement, and we reserve the right to take possession of the dog.
If you are moving somewhere where you are unsure whether the dog can accompany you, please contact us. We can advocate on your behalf!
If your dog becomes lost, telephone us immediately. We can assist you in the search, and have a huge network of contacts that we can tap into to help.
If You Move or Change Your Address, Phone, Etc. PLEASE be courteous and inform us of ANY changes in your personal situation, whether it be a new living arrangement, new phone number, etc.
Public Access Information
The IAADP (go to www.iaadp.org) is an organization devoted to education and advocacy of service dog teams. You have been provided a one-year membership, courtesy of WADEC As a member, you have access to many wonderful benefits including information on the latest legislation that affects you, free preventative care from a Banfield Trust veterinarian, advocacy, opportunities for subsidized food, opportunities to attend the Assistance Dog Conference and more.
U.S. Government Service Animal Information (www.usdoj.gov/crt/ada/animal/htm)
COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT SERVICE ANIMALS IN PLACES OF BUSINESS
- Q: What are the laws that apply to my business?
- A: Under the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), privately owned businesses that serve the public, such as restaurants, hotels, retail stores, taxicabs, theaters, concert halls, and sports facilities, are prohibited from discriminating against individuals with disabilities. The ADA requires these businesses to allow people with disabilities to bring their service animals onto business premises in whatever areas customers are generally allowed.
- Q: What is a service animal?
- A: The ADA defines a service animal as any guide dog, signal dog, or other animal individually trained to provide assistance to an individual with a disability. If they meet this definition, animals are considered service animals under the ADA regardless of whether they have been licensed or certified by a state or local government.
- Service animals perform some of the functions and tasks that the individual with a disability cannot perform for him or herself. "Seeing eye dogs" are one type of service animal, used by some individuals who are blind. This is the type of service animal with which most people are familiar. But there are service animals that assist persons with other kinds of disabilities in their day-to-day activities. Some examples include:
- Alerting persons with hearing impairments to sounds.
- Pulling wheelchairs or carrying and picking up things for persons with mobility impairments.
- Assisting persons with mobility impairments with balance.
- Q: How can I tell if an animal is really a service animal and not just a pet?
- A: Some, but not all, service animals wear special collars and harnesses. Some, but not all, are licensed or certified and have identification papers. If you are not certain that an animal is a service animal, you may ask the person who has the animal if it is a service animal required because of a disability. However, an individual who is going to a restaurant or theater is not likely to be carrying documentation of his or her medical condition or disability. Therefore, such documentation generally may not be required as a condition for providing service to an individual accompanied by a service animal. Although a number of states have programs to certify service animals, you may not insist on proof of state certification before permitting the service animal to accompany the person with a disability.
- Q: What must I do when an individual with a service animal comes to my business?
- A: The service animal must be permitted to accompany the individual with a disability to all areas of the facility where customers are normally allowed to go. An individual with a service animal may not be segregated from other customers.
- Q: I have always had a clearly posted "no pets" policy at my establishment. Do I still have to allow service animals in?
- A: Yes. A service animal is not a pet. The ADA requires you to modify your "no pets" policy to allow the use of a service animal by a person with a disability. This does not mean you must abandon your "no pets" policy altogether but simply that you must make an exception to your general rule for service animals.
- Q: My county health department has told me that only a seeing eye or guide dog has to be admitted. If I follow those regulations, am I violating the ADA?
- A: Yes, if you refuse to admit any other type of service animal on the basis of local health department regulations or other state or local laws. The ADA provides greater protection for individuals with disabilities and so it takes priority over the local or state laws or regulations.
- Q: Can I charge a maintenance or cleaning fee for customers who bring service animals into my business?
- A: No. Neither a deposit nor a surcharge may be imposed on an individual with a disability as a condition to allowing a service animal to accompany the individual with a disability, even if deposits are routinely required for pets. However, a public accommodation may charge its customers with disabilities if a service animal causes damage so long as it is the regular practice of the entity to charge non-disabled customers for the same types of damages. For example, a hotel can charge a guest with a disability for the cost of repairing or cleaning furniture damaged by a service animal if it is the hotel's policy to charge when non-disabled guests cause such damage.
- Q: I operate a private taxicab and I don't want animals in my taxi; they smell, shed hair and sometimes have "accidents." Am I violating the ADA if I refuse to pick up someone with a service animal?
- A: Yes. Taxicab companies may not refuse to provide services to individuals with disabilities. Private taxicab companies are also prohibited from charging higher fares or fees for transporting individuals with disabilities and their service animals than they charge to other persons for the same or equivalent service.
- Q: Am I responsible for the animal while the person with a disability is in my business?
- A: No. The care or supervision of a service animal is solely the responsibility of his or her owner. You are not required to provide care or food or a special location for the animal
- Q: What if a service animal barks or growls at other people or otherwise acts out of control?
- A: You may exclude any animal, including a service animal, from your facility when that animal's behavior poses a direct threat to the health or safety of others. For example, any service animal that displays vicious behavior towards other guests or customers may be excluded. You may not make assumptions, however, about how a particular animal is likely to behave based on your past experience with other animals. Each situation must be considered individually.
- Although a public accommodation may exclude any service animal that is out of control, it should give the individual with a disability who uses the service animal the option of continuing to enjoy its goods and services without having the service animal on the premises.
- Q: Can I exclude an animal that doesn't really seem dangerous but is disruptive to my business?
- A: There may be a few circumstances when a public accommodation is not required to accommodate a service animal--that is, when doing so would result in a fundamental alteration to the nature of the business. Generally, this is not likely to occur in restaurants, hotels, retail stores, theaters, concert halls, and sports facilities. But when it does, for example, when a dog barks during a movie, the animal can be excluded.
- If you have further questions about service animals or other requirements of the ADA, you may call the U.S. Department of Justice's toll-free ADA Information Line at 800-514-0301 (voice) or 800-514-0383 (TDD).
Week 1 Day 5 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 1 Day 5 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Review and practice all cues learned until now.
Push This cue is primarily for closing cabinet doors and drawers, although you can train your dog to push other objects as well. Position your dog in front of the door, and ask for push. If he anticipates your request, you may need to ask him to wait, or watch you before you ask for push.
Go through, turn, back This behavior is used in doorways, and in aisles or anywhere that is too small to safely allow you and the dog to walk side by side. Using this cue allows you to remain in control of your dog and know what he is doing at all times. (if he was behind you in an aisle, he could be helping himself to things on the way).
Approach the door, being aware that your dog needs a certain amount of personal space to be able to do this cue. Check leash length, since it usually requires a longer leash to comfortably do this maneuver. Ask your dog to go through, when he does, to turn, and then to back as you follow him through the door.
Door etiquette It is one of those self-control behaviors that your dog not be allowed to rush through doors ahead of you.
Ask him to sit, and wait. Open the door, and say either Let's go, and walk through together, or Go through and have him turn and back in front of you. Going through doors nicely will prevent your dog from pulling on you in his excitement to come or go and will help him listen to you.
Open Your dog has been trained to open a door with a lever handle and push it open. Approach the closed door, and ask your dog to open. He will jump up and hit the handle with his paws, and usually push the door open with his weight once the handle has disengaged. If the door isn't fully open, you can then ask for a push.
Mark (auto door openers) This cue is used for opening the automatic doors at the mall etc (and for painting). Line up your dog's body (not yours) straight, facing the button. Ask him for mark. You may need to show him the button. He will jump up and hit it with his paw.
Continuing Education requirements
In order to maintain the training that your dog has, and to continue to improve as a handler, it is important to continue your training together. WADEC will be holding periodic training sessions, and you will be required to attend 3 training session in first year. You can attend more if you like, but the 3 are mandatory.
What to expect in week 2
- As your dog's handler, you will be responsible for toileting, so bring poop bags.
- You will be responsible for all your dog's equipment (leash, GL, harness, pack).
- We will be taking our skills on the road.
- End of transfer camp: ADI test and cues test
- We will expect you to bring training treats for your dog. This could be cut up chicken or turkey "hot dogs," microwaved chicken or steak, or something else enticing. You may mix treats with kibble.
Week 2 Day 1 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
How to train new behaviors
The 3 Ds
- Distance - increase it very gradually. If a dog can come from 5 feet away, move to 56 not 10 feet.
- Duration - If a dog can sit for 10 seconds, ask for 11 to 13 the next time, not 30.
- Distractions - If the dog can sit in your kitchen, then you can try it somewhere new. Try the living room before moving outdoors. Try the driveway before attempting the grocery store.
Rate of reinforcement is one of the most important aspects of training, especially with when introducing a new behavior.
Rate of reinforcement is not about delivering a treat as fast as you can. It is about setting your dog up for lots of success (lots of clicks and treats), because fluency is built upon successful repetitions. Rate of reinforcement is also about setting the criteria of the task at a level where the dog can have lots of success- LOTS, quickly, and easily. Each time your are able to C/T think of it like putting money into a savings account. You are building your dogs wealth, otherwise known as a "reward history". If you have a strong history of rewarding your dog for certain behaviors, he will try harder to do what you are asking. When you ask your dog to do a task and you dont reward him doing it, you are making a withdrawal from his bank. Always make lots more deposits than withdrawals.
If your dog is not succeeding, you are making the task too hard. ( Trust that he is not being "stubborn" He will do it if he can. Figure out why its too hard- is it the place, the distractions or perhaps the way you are cueing it? Are you standing over him, etc. Sometimes just moving and asking again can help.)
Your job-Simplify what you will reward by breaking a behavior into tinier pieces so that your dog can accomplish the task. Then allow your dog time to try and to figure it out. Keep him engaged and trying by clicking close approximations. A clicker savvy dog will continue to offer behaviors in order to sort out what you are wanting him to do. It is important that you not help him too much, but let him figure it out by using the clicks as his information.
Cues are not added until the behavior is reliable. When you will bet $50 bucks the dog will do something, you are ready to add the cue. When the dog is consistently offering the behavior, name it.
Then when you think the dog understands, ask for the behavior before it begins, You can make a name association with a behavior at first, while its happening and gradually move the word to before the behavior occurs
Play training game.
Clicker Tips - (adapted from Karen Pryor)
- Click DURING the desired behavior, not afterwards. The timing of the click is all important.
- The click ends the behavior.
- Reach for the treat after you click.
- ALWAYS treat if you click. You can treat without a click but if you click, you must treat, even if you didnt mean to.
- Click only once. If you really liked a behavior, you can increase the treats but not the clicks.
- Keep your sessions short. You will accomplish more in 5 minutes well spent than a boring hour long session.
- Fix bad behavior by clicking good behavior. If your dog is barking in his crate, C/T when he is quiet. C/T when the leash is slack and you will eliminate pulling. C/T for four on the floor and you will stop jumping.
- Click for small movements toward your goal rather than the "whole picture", then continue to raise your goals. For example, if a dog can sit for a few seconds, gradually wait an extra second before clicking and the sits will get longer in duration, This is called "shaping".
- If you are not making progress with a behavior you are probably clicking late. Accurate timing is important.
- If you are angry, frustrated, etc, quit training. The behavior you are working on is NEVER more important than your relationship. If training isnt fun for both of you, quit.
- Train without a leash as much as possible. Keep it attached for safety if need be but have your dog moving freely unless you are out in public and cant.
- We dont push, pull or manipulate the dogs to get behaviors.
- Be generous, not stingy. The worst that happens is that your dog eats a few extra pieces of food.
- Train one behavior at a time. But you can train more than one behavior in a session, just not simultaneously.
- Learn to use both hands equally for holding the leash, for clicking, and for treating.
- Once is all if takes- dont repeat your cues. If your pup doesnt perform, say "ooops" , reposition yourself and ask for something else. Ask yourself if you requested something too difficult, or asked for it in an unfamiliar way. Be a behaviorist and figure out how to get your dog to succeed.
- If your dog doesnt do something then he doesnt know it in that context. He is not being stubborn! Figure out what is different, after all, you are the smart one- are you standing instead of sitting, are you outdoors instead of indoors, hovering, adding distance too soon, etc. Your dog will "tell" you.
- Keep your treat hand quiet. Click first then move your hand to feed, not the reverse.
- If your dog pulls you, dont move. Learn to be a tree. Moving is the reward so by going forward, you are rewarding the pull. Instead, wait for the leash to go slack, then reward the slack leash by moving.
- Learn to be a quiet trainer, use a regular speaking voice, and quiet your body movements.
- Learn to be patient and wait for the dog to give you the behavior. Dont help them, let them work it out. If they really dont know what to do, back up a step and figure out how to make it clear.
- Do have fun with your dog. Nothing you are teaching is more important than the relationship between you and the dog.
Shaping vs Luring
Luring describes asking a dog to follow a treat in your hand. Shaping describes a gradual increase in behavior to a desired end.
You can "lure" something approximately 3 times, then stop
The position of the lure in your hand usually becomes the hand signal- it is the same hand position without the food in it
"Shaping" is slower in the beginning but more reliable and creates stronger behaviors in the long run.
Why we want to shape behaviors instead of luring behaviors-
This is the essence and beauty of this kind of training. We want to create super thinkers and the only way to teach a dog to think is by getting out of the way and letting it happen. When we lure, we prevent thinking. Luring can jump start the behavior but dogs and people can quickly become dependent on it. It is like following a car to get somewhere vs remembering the directions yourself.
We train our Service Dogs to be able to problem solve and think and ENJOY the process of working something out. You will be amazed at how much the dogs love it . Dogs that begin this as puppies develop a capacity to learn. Dogs that dont learn this as puppies wait to be told everything. We want to develop super brains so we shape, shape, shape!
Raising Criteria- One of the arts of training is not moving too fast so that your dog is frustrated and cant succeed enough AND not moving too slowly so the dog gets stuck in one place and finds it too hard to advance.
In scientific terms, we raise criteria when the dog can succeed 7 or 8 out of 10 times. If we wait until the dog succeeds 9 or 10 times then he will have a hard time progressing. If we ask him to go to the next level when he is only succeeding 4 or 5 times, he also will be unable. Just because a dog does something once doesnt mean he knows it.
Types of reward schedules:
- Fixed ratios and variable ratios
- While learning a new behavior use a fixed ratio
- After the behavior is learned - use a variable ratio or variable rewards
- Variable rewards (praise, different treats, life rewards)
- Reward only the best to raise criteria
Practical: each choose a new shaping behavior to present by end of week
Week 2 Day 1 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 2 Day 1 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
The retrieve is the quiet hold that your dog has learned to pick up items from the floor, or carry items for you. This is a versatile cue, and can be used many ways in daily life.
The basic cues for the retrieve:
- Get It From your hand or the floor.
- Hold Quietly until I tell you otherwise.
- Give Into my hand.
- Bring to hand Your dog should bring the item directly to your hand and hold it until you have grasped it.
- Carry (this is not a cue, use "hold, lets go"Your dog can carry an item and walk next to you.
- Get your leash This is a specific cue
- Get the phone Also a specific cue. You will need to teach your dog where the phone is. It helps the dog to have a leather case on cell phones and perhaps a strap on a house phone. (it is also safer for the phone)
- Hold and sit, sit and hold, hold and up Your dog should be able to hold an item and perform a second behavior at the same time.
- TugYour dog can tug a strap to open a door by pulling it towards him, open a cabinet or drawer, and tug off your socks or coat. Balance dogs can be taught a tug to help you out of a chair. Hand your dog the tug device, then ask for tug.
- Hand/other signal:
- Point toward object
- Alternate-give object to dog and say tug
- Door OpeningIf you wish to have your dog open a door, you will need to affix some sort of tug to the handle. Your dog should be positioned on the hinge side of the door; you should be centered on the side of the door being opened, not on the entire door frame, and such that there is room for the door to be opened, and that you will be able to move forward to brace the door once it is open.
- With your dog in place, cue
- "Tug." You may also have to then cue "Hold." Once the door is open, move in to place, then cue
- Release, then
- "Heel" or "Side" cue, whichever is appropriate for the situation, then
- "Go Through," then
- "Heel, Lets Go
- Brace (cues are Stand or Touch, then Stay)Balance dogs are taught to stand and stay while you use them as a brace to get off of the floor in case you fall.
Work on the first steps to teaching your dog his new behavior.
Read the information for Week 2 Day 2 in your training manual.
Week 2 Day 2 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Going out in public with your dog.
WADECs policy for allowing the public to pet your dog is:
It is up to you if you want to allow someone to pet your dog. This policy differs from other programs who have a strictly hands off policy. WADEC believes that for many of our clients, having the dog as a social bridge and ice breaker is a way to meet people and improve social interactions.
It is certainly fine for you to decide at any time that you do not want the interruption, and to refuse the request to stop and let someone pet. You can always say, "Im sorry, but hes working right now."
The public should and are expected to ask your permission before they approach your dog. If they dont, ask them to step back, and not to pet until you have your dog sitting or down. You can request that they allow you to cue your dog. When your dog is sitting or down, they are then free to approach and pet, but if he gets up, they should stop and back up until he sits again.
Toileting reminder: always carry poop bags with you. If your dog wears a pack you may want to put a few in the pocket so you will always have them. Always allow your dog to toilet before you leave home, and before you enter a store.
Expectations for your dog in public:
Going out in public can be a challenging time for your dog. There are many distractions for your dog to ignore, and the places we go are often a strange and possibly scary for a dog who is naturally used to his home environment. The dog who can handle anything in the human environment with confidence is actually the exception rather than the norm.
Keeping this in mind, you may need to carry higher quality treats at times when you know your dog may be stressed or if you are going into a difficult environment.
If your dog cannot seem to do a cue that you know he knows well, it may be because he is unaccustomed to doing that behavior in a strange environment. Just because your dog can do X in Y amount of time and reliability at home, does not mean he can do it in all places.
If your dog is having trouble with a cue in public, you may need to adjust your expectations. Try to break the behavior down, or ask for a watch me or touch to refocus him on you.
Expect your dog to be able to exhibit self control while you are out with him, but help him to be self controlled by being super vigilant over him and aware of his environment. If you see a dog coming towards you, you may need to cross to the other side of the street to help your dog be successful by avoiding having a strange dog in his personal space. Being a good partner for your dog means you are taking steps to make his job possible and to protect him all the time. He will love you for it.
- Behavior: Dog puts front paws up on person, table, etc.
- Hand/other signal: Pat or point to lap or object. If the up is to your chair, lock it.
- Behavior: Dog gets off of whatever he is on; could be front two paws, or all four paws.
- Hand/other signal: Sweeping motion away from the object, toward the floor.
- Making Purchases
- If dog is paying for your purchase, give your dog your money or credit card (preferably in a pouch of some kind), cueing
- "Get It," then
- "Up" to put his paws on the counter, then
- "Give" to give the money to the clerk, followed by
- If you wish for your dog to take the package and/or the change (you will have to do each separately), first cue "Up," "Get It," "Off," then "Give." In each exchange be sure that your dog has ample room to put his paws up on the counter
- WARNING: Do NOT ask your dog to up on flimsy glass shelving! Be sure that the surface that you want him on is both stable and safe.
- New Behavior
- Look at the new behaviors the dogs are learning. Suggestions for raising criteria
Week 2 Day 2 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 2 Day 2 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Field trip to Alderwood Mall
We will include lunch out in our field trip today.
We will be practicing all of our cues, including:
- Go In
- Go through, turn, back
- Opening big doors
- Stairs (if applicable)
- Meet n greets
Homework: Continue to work on your new behavior skills.
Week 2 Day 3 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Review new behavior
Suggestions for raising criteria
- Dog sticks nose forward slightly to accept collar or vest
- Dog will lay flat on side with head down.
- Ask dog to down, then flat
- Hand signal: move closed hand in sweeping motion from nose towards the back of the shoulder.
- Behavior: From a seated position, dog offers his front paw to shake.
- Hand/other signal: presenting your hand palm up and open
- Stand (not all know this)
- Dog stands
- Hand/other signal: Hand is extended where you want the dog to be in a "touch" position
- This is used when you want to the dog to exchange the toy he has with a treat or another toy, or if he has something you dont want him to have. Trading for a yummy treat or toy is better than taking something away from your dog, because taking something away from him may create a resource guarder.
- Resource guarding is a dog who has something he values (dinner, treat, a person, a toy) and who is going to growl and defend that valued thing.
Week 2 Day 3 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 2 Day 3 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Field trip to Langley and Clinton via. Public transportation
We will be taking the bus from Kens Korner to Langley in order to learn where your dog should be placed when traveling on public transportation. This will be particularly important for clients who do not have their own vehicles, or who regularly take public transportation.
We will arrive in Langley will have lunch there, and do a shopping expedition and go in some smaller shops. We will then take the transit to Freeland and we will go to a grocery store, You will be expected to navigate doors, and crowded store aisles with your dog.
You will also be expected to make a purchase at one of the stores, to practice having your dog pay cashiers (if applicable) and experience the process of life out and about with your dog.
Week 2 Day 4 Time: 10:30 - 12:00
Review new behavior
Review of all cues
Photo session with your dog for ID badges
Week 2 Day 4 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 2 Day 4 Time: 12:30 - 5:00
Trip To The Mall
The planned trip for this day is to Alderwood Mall. This is an outside pedestrian mall, so plan accordingly in case warmer clothing is needed. This trip may be changed if weather makes it necessary.
We will be working in an outdoor environment with lots of other dogs, smells, squirrels, people, traffic... We will be practicing Leave Its, meet n greets, passing other dogs, etc.
We are also going to be practicing a mock ADI Public Access Test.
Homework: Practice and review Cues for the test tomorrow.
Be ready to show the new skill you have taught
Week 2 Day 5 Time: 10:30 - 1:00
Review shaping behavior
This test will require you to demonstrate each cue with your dog, with appropriate word and hand signal if applicable.
This will cover the written material in your transfer camp manual.
Week 2 Day 5 Time: 12:00 - 1:00
Week 2 Day 5 Time: 1:00 - 5:00
Trip to Alderwood mall for the ADI Public Access Test.
Congratulations on successfully completing the requirements for WADECs training camp! You and your new Service dog are off to a good start.
When you go home with your new dog, expect that there will be a time of adjustment for both of you, and other members of the family. Expect that it may not go perfectly smoothly at first, but have patience and keep trying. Call us with any questions or problems that you have.
Please keep us updatedwith how you and your new Service Dog are doing. There are many people, from puppy raisers to volunteers to friends to children in schools to trainers who have all invested much time and love into your dog. We want to know how you are both doing.